Roasted Butternut Squash Ribbons with Arugula, Pancetta, Radicchio, and Hazelnut Salad

I started with a recipe from Gourmet, but it veered pretty wildly off course as I put the salad together. Note to anyone who had this at Boyd’s party: I thought the final product could use a lot more butternut squash, so I doubled that amount in this recipe. If you want to do anything ahead , toast and peel the hazelnuts—they are a little time-consuming IMO.

Makes 8 servings/one big bowl

Salad:

  • 3/4 cup hazelnuts
  • 8 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, halved and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide strips (about 1 cup)
  • 4-6 cups baby arugula
  • one head radicchio, shredded

Squash:

  • 1  butternut squash, trimmed and peeled
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground pepper

Vinaigrette:

  • vinegar—I used Champagne, but red or white wine, or Sherry, would all work fine.
  • salt and pepper
  • Dijon mustard
  • good-quality olive oil

Preparation

Begin salad:
Heat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.

Roast hazelnuts on a baking sheet in oven until fragrant and pale golden inside (cut one open to test), 8 to 10 minutes (keep oven on). Wrap hot nuts in a towel and rub together to remove any loose skins. Halve nuts.

While nuts are roasting, cook pancetta in a 9- to 10-inch heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp. Transfer  to paper towels to drain.

Roast squash:
Increase oven to 425°F with rack in middle. Lightly oil baking sheet or use a Silpat if you have one. If you don’t have one, use this as an excuse to get one.

Halve squash lengthwise and seed. Use vegetable peeler to peel squash into long thin ribbons into a large bowl. Toss squash with 3 tablespoons olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper in a large bowl until coated. Spread ribbons evenly on a 13- by 9-inch baking sheet, leaving the Silpat in place from roasting the hazelnuts. Bake until tender, 15 to 20 minutes, then turn on broiler and broil until lightly browned, 30 seconds to 1 minute.

Make vinaigrette while squash is roasting:

Assemble salad:
Toss arugula and radicchio in a salad bowl with about 1/2 cup vinaigrette (there may be some left over). Then toss in pancetta, hazelnuts, and squash.

 

 

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Shepherd’s Pie

Upon finding myself with a shit-ton of root vegetables and some leftover mashed potatoes from Thanksgiving, I decided to make my first Shepherd’s Pie. It’s not especially difficult, but I haven’t made it, and when I get it in restaurants, it’s often oversalted and otherwise underseasoned. I did what any smart cook does when trying something new—I worked off of a recipe and then tweaked the dish to fit what I had on hand, and to correct seasonings. This recipe is based on one from Alton Brown.

pi

Prep Time:
45 min

Cook Time:
45 min

For the potatoes:

Beat an egg yolk into 2-3 cups of leftover mashed potatoes. This helps brown up the potatoes in the oven.

For the meat filling:

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
2 carrots, peeled and diced small (or a combination of root veg—you want about a cup)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 to 1.5 lbs ground lamb or beef
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1/2 cup red wine or sherry

1/2 cup water or stock
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs—any combination of thyme, savory, rosemary, sage, and parsley works as long as the rosemary and/or sage aren’t the primary herbs. Parsley alone would be wimpy.

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 cup fresh or frozen English peas

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Place the olive oil into a 12-inch saute pan and set over medium high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the onion and carrots (or other root veg) and saute just until they begin to take on color, approximately 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and stir to combine. Add the meat, salt and pepper and cook until browned and cooked through, approximately 3 minutes. Sprinkle the meat with the flour and toss to coat, continuing to cook for another minute. Add the tomato paste, wine, water, Worcestershire, and herbs, and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer slowly 10 to 12 minutes or until the sauce is thickened slightly. Taste, and add more Worcestershire, salt, pepper, and wine as needed.
Add the peas to the meat mixture and spread evenly into an 11 by 7-inch glass baking dish. Top with the mashed potatoes, starting around the edges to create a seal to prevent the mixture from bubbling up and smooth with a rubber spatula. Place on a parchment paper-lined half sheet pan (or a Silpat, if you have one) on the middle rack of the oven and bake for 25 minutes or just until the potatoes begin to brown. Remove to a cooling rack for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Note: The flavors will  intensify overnight, so if you plan to eat this for multiple days, slightly underseason.

 

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Let’s Talk Stock

 

crockpot

Those of you who read my recipe blog know that I don’t write much about technique. As a matter of fact, I typically assume you already know how to cook when I publish my recipes, and often just lay out a list of ingredients. Last night, my friend Boyd Marts asked me about making lots of gravy, and that bit of advice-giving led me to this post. Stock is something people just don’t make enough, and they should. It’s easy as sin, and in the case of your turkey dinner, an essential component. Whenever I clean vegetables, I put the trimmings in the freezer so they are on the ready for the next batch of stock.I recently learned to add onion skins to stock. They bring more onion flavor and make stock an appealing golden hue.

So why is stock so important today, the day before Thanksgiving? You’re going to use it for two things tomorrow: moistening the stuffing, and making the gravy. By making it today, you get ahead of the busy day tomorrow, and the main ingredient in it is the vegetable trim from making your stuffing, so you’ll get those veg all ready to go as well. The stock pictured above is everything I cut up today: onion, fennel, shallot and celery trimmings, and the turkey neck. I’ll prep my fresh herbs for the biscuits and the stuffing later today, and those stems will go in as well. I also add whole black peppercorns. You can put the turkey organs in there as well, but I’d skip the kidneys for the obvious reasons.

So—why do stock in a crock pot? Simple. You can ignore it all day, and it’s guaranteed to come out perfect. The low heat gently extracts the flavor from your ingredients, and it will be crystal-clear. When you make stock on the stovetop, it can accidentally get hotter than boiling, which releases proteins in meat, and makes the stock both look and taste muddy. (The fix, which is a bother, can be found here.) By making it in the crock pot, you’re assured a clear stock.

Posted in Holiday, soup, technique, vegetables | 2 Comments

Green Bean Not-Casserole

 

I like green beans with a holiday meal, but that “classic” way of dumping canned green beans and cream of mushroom soup into a casserole dish doesn’t cut it. This is what I came up with instead.

Fried Shallots

butter

flour

milk

sliced Crimini mushrooms

green beans

Fry up some shallots. This is a pain in the butt and a little messy. I typically get two batches of them out of one 2-cup thing of grapeseed oil if I keep the oil refrigerated in a glass jar. I find the best thickness on the mandoline is 1.3 mm. I think it’s not a sin to make the shallots in advance, though they may not be as crunchy if you do.

Make a bechamel sauce. Season with salt and pepper, and maybe a splash of vermouth.

Saute the ‘shrooms in some butter, and do it long enough that the mushrooms give off their liquid and become limp. Season with salt and pepper.

Cook the green beans in boiling sated water, drain.

To assemble: put the beans in a dish. Sauce with the bechamel, then top with the mushrooms, then the shallots.

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German Goulash

I heavily adapted this recipe from one I found online when faced with the challenge of cooking for a German-themed potluck.

olive oil

2 # stew beef

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 large onions, diced

2 large carrots, sliced (peel if needed—I never peel organic ones)

4 potatoes, peeled and diced

1-14 oz. can of whole tomatoes, diced, plus the juice (whole tomatoes tend to be the best canned tomatoes—always take this extra step)

1 T tomato paste

2 T mixed dried herbs, such as marjoram or thyme

2 T paprika

1 T smoked paprika

2 T caraway seeds

1 bottle red wine

Wondra flour

salt and pepper

sour cream

Heat oil in cast iron skillet, brown beef in small batches, set aside. Sweat garlic and onions, set aside. Deglaze pan with wine. Put meat, vegetables, herbs, and spices in Dutch oven, adding more wine if needed to cover everything. Bake, covered, for 90 minutes in 375 degree oven (I’m guessing on the time). When there’s about an hour of cooking time left, sprinkle some Wondra over everything and mix in, place back in oven. The flour will thicken this liquid into gravy. Adjust seasonings as needed.

Posted in entrees, faux ethnic food, Potluck, soup | 1 Comment

German-inspired slaw

I put this together when my CSA sent me a giant, perfect head of red cabbage, and I had an invite to a German-themed potluck. It is a simple riff, but good enough to write it down. Nothing is set in stone.

Slaw:

1 head red cabbage

1 sweet onion

1 green pepper

Shred all slaw ingredients, removing any bulky bits. Store in a resealable container or gallon Ziploc bag.

Dressing:

apple cider vinegar

mustard powder

celery seed

prepared dijon mustard

salt and pepper

walnut oil

bacon jam

I prefer to make a vinaigrette in a wide wooden salad bowl, but any old bowl will do. Put in enough ACV to start, maybe 1/3 of a cup. Add mustard powder, celery seed, and a dab of dijon. The dijon helps the dressing emulsify. Drizzle in walnut oil (olive oil will do) beating with a fork until the acid balance is just right, and then add in the bacon jam a teaspoon at a time until you’re happy with it. Salt and pepper to taste. Then transfer the dressing to a jar, and dress salad as needed. If you store the slaw undressed. this salad will keep for 3 days or so.

Posted in faux ethnic food, Potluck, Salad, Salad dressing | 1 Comment

Malaysian Black Pepper Clams

(I’m copy/pasting this entire email from Mal Daly into the files, both for historical context and also because I’m on deadline and don’t have time to scrub. I will make this with mussels when I do.—AW)

When I was in Singapore, I got a hot tip from a hotel concierge about a great local restaurant, after much arm-twisting to not send me to a tourist spot. It turned out that her grandfather owned a popular Malaysian diner that was off the beaten path and outside the city. Though there wasn’t a lot of English spoken there, as always, the love of food was the understood language. That day, I tasted lots of traditional Malaysian dishes, including this one, which they made with crab instead of clams. However, the sweetness of clams with this sauce is an undeniably fantastic combination. A big bowl of these clams, the broth, some crusty bread for dipping and a salad make the perfect meal with very little mess to clean up afterwards. Whenever we rotate the menu at Street, we try to take this recipe off and it practically causes a riot.

Serves 4
2-1/2 pounds Manila clams
1/4 cup grated coconut palm sugar or packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
Juice of 1-1/2 limes
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick)unsalted butter
10 fresh mint leaves
1/2cup fresh cilantro leaves
1/4 cup fresh Thai basil leaves (see page 109) or regular basil leaves
Sourdough bread, sliced1 inch thick and toasted, for serving
Optional
Extra virgin olive oil, for serving
Lime wedges

1. Put the clams in a large bowl and rinse them under cold running water for 5 to 10 minutes to purge them of all sand and grit. Drain.
2. In a small bowl, combine the coconut palm sugar, oyster sauce, soy sauce, and lime juice.
3. Heat the canola oil in a large sauté pan or skillet set over high heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, to release the flavors, but do not let the garlic brown. Add the black pepper and the clams. Add 1/3 cup water, cover immediately, and steam the clams for 3 to 4 minutes or until they open. Remove any that do not open. Add the oyster sauce mixture and stir well. Add the butter, stir well, and pour the clams into a large bowl.
4. Sprinkle the mint, cilantro, and Thai basil over the clams. Serve with the toasted bread, brushed with the olive oil, if desired, and wedges of fresh lime.

I had a friend over who didn’t eat clams so I tossed some chunks of cod in flour with S&P, sauteed them off then finished them in some of the broth the poached form the clams. Mmmmmm. This one swings both ways. Lots of fresh ground black pepper was the key. This menu doesn’t say to do it but serve them over Rice Pad Thai noodles for and entrée version.

Mal

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Moroccan Meatballs with Lemon Couscous

 

This dish is better the second day. As an alternative, remove the meatballs and carrots at the end of cooking, and partially puree the stew. This refines the dish somewhat.

Meatballs:

1 pound ground beef

1/3 cup coarsely grated onion

1/3 cup panko

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 large egg, beaten to blend

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

Stew:

 

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 1/2 cups chopped onions

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 cinnamon sticks

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled

1 cup beef broth

1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice

1/4 cup golden raisins

2 cups 1/2-inch-thick carrot slices (cut on diagonal)

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

4 ounces baby spinach leaves

Lemon Couscous

Preparation

For meatballs:
Line large rimmed baking sheet with plastic wrap. Gently mix all ingredients in large bowl. Using moistened hands and scant 2 tablespoonfuls for each, roll meat mixture into 1 1/2-inch meatballs. Arrange meatballs on sheet.

For stew:
Heat oil in heavy large ovenproof pot over medium heat. Add onions; sauté about 15 minutes. Add garlic, cinnamon, turmeric, and saffron; stir 2 minutes. Add broth, tomatoes with juice, and raisins.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Bring stew to simmer. Stir in carrots. Carefully add meatballs to stew; gently press into liquid to submerge. Sprinkle 1/4 cup cilantro over. Cover pot; place in oven. Bake until meatballs are cooked through and carrots are tender, about 35 minutes. Sprinkle spinach over stew. Cover and bake until spinach wilts, about 5 minutes longer. Gently stir to mix in spinach, being careful not to break meatballs. Remove cinnamon sticks. Season tagine with salt and pepper. Spoon couscous into bowls; top with tagine. Garnish with cilantro and lemons.

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Lemon Couscous

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1 2/3 cups water

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt

1 1/2 cups plain couscous

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and turmeric; stir 1 minute. Add 1 2/3 cups water, lemon peel, and 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt; bring to boil. Remove pan from heat. Stir in couscous. Cover; let stand until liquid is absorbed, about 5 minutes. Fluff with fork; mix in cilantro and lemon juice. Season with pepper and additional coarse salt, if desired.
 

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How to Clarify Cloudy Stock

http://localkitchenblog.com/2009/04/22/how-to-clarify-cloudy-chicken-stock/#comment-21166

 

It really works. Just be gentle straining and filtering everything.

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